﻿<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Auto Restorer Community / Auto Restorer Forums / Auto Restorer Discussions </title><generator>InstantForum.NET v4.1.2</generator><description>Auto Restorer Community</description><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/</link><webMaster>forums@bowtieinc.com</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Thu, 28 Aug 2008 21:35:13 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><item><title>6 volt to 8 volt</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic316-4-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;FONT size=3&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Help Please, I have a 1929 model A Ford pick-up and would like to convert it from the slow turning 6 to a little quicker 8 volt. Many years ago my dad did all of his tractor this way. Much better cranking. I also know it plays havoc with the bulbs. It's not driven a night so I'm not worried about the head lights. Just the break and tail. I'll just to have a good supply of bulbs. LOL But is there anything else that I need to be concerned with. I've read articles that say the starter is fine with the 8 volt but that about all I've been able to come up with. Will the generator put any power into the battery ?  I've been told I can use a 1.5 amp trickle charger set on 6 volt and it will keep the battery up, is this true. You'd be surprize at how many of the younger people have never heard of the 8 volt. The first auto store I went to the kid looked at me like I was crazy, you want a "WHAT" ? LOL&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/Hehe.gif" border="0" title="Hehe"&gt;&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=3&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;Thanks for the help,&lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT size=3&gt;&lt;STRONG&gt;LiLRdWgn (Gene)  &lt;/STRONG&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;</description><pubDate>Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:04:04 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>LiLRdWgn</dc:creator></item><item><title>Welding helmet endorsment</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic315-4-1.aspx</link><description>Hi everyone ~ my first posting ~ I'm so pleased with this product that I wanted to share it with everyone.  I was searching for an auto-darkening welding helmet and after considerable research settled on a &lt;STRONG&gt;Cherokee Industries chin strap operated visor&lt;/STRONG&gt;.  What a dandy tool!  Its built tough as nails; requires no batteries ; is unaffected by temperature; is easy to operate; darkens instantly because you drop the visor down w/ your jaw (unlike the self-darkening ones that have a lag); economical (cost about $75 versus $200-300 for a decent self-darkening one);and can be thrown about w/o fear of breaking. A perfect match for a sometime welder like me who doesn't want to spend a fortune but needs both hands while he's welding. (BTW, I am simply a satisfied customer and don't get a penny for my endorsement.)</description><pubDate>Sat, 26 Jul 2008 12:31:44 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>toothfairy</dc:creator></item><item><title>Removing sparkplug from Aluminum head</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic314-4-1.aspx</link><description>Hi,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;A couple of years ago Auto Restorer published the name of a product that freed frozen plugs from aluminum heads.  Need for 1977 Mercedes.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;HELP!!</description><pubDate>Wed, 23 Jul 2008 14:38:49 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Jerry Old-trucks</dc:creator></item><item><title>formula for computing RPM</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic303-4-1.aspx</link><description>About 4 or 5 years ago an article in Auto restorer included a formula for computing engine RPM by knowing speed, gear ratios and wheel diameter.  At the time it worked fine for me but I have misplaced the article.  Similar articles I have seen don't seem to compute correctly like that one did.</description><pubDate>Wed, 25 Jun 2008 13:20:36 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>paul helman</dc:creator></item><item><title>Whats this all about?</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic123-4-1.aspx</link><description>This is my first year subscribing to this magazine and so far I thought it was a half decent publication.  However I have serious doubts about the direction this magazine is headed.  The October Magazine Starts of with "Hearing from a new voice" and starts of by Identifying an interim by the name of Allison M. Strickland that wants to be an "automotive journalist" This young lady talks about her short history with cars. LOL  But what really got me was when she tells us how she loves to drive her Honda Prelude and how she "would not trade it for the world" What is this all about? This woman has no business writing for this magazine with a statement like that and her obvious lack of good taste. Come on you guys can do better than this, cant you? Greg</description><pubDate>Tue, 11 Oct 2005 13:32:23 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>pnsman64</dc:creator></item><item><title>Interior Mold</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic249-4-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 60 Stude Lark Convertible and a 64 Avanti that have been sitting in our pole barn since I was pregnant with my daughter, who is now 4; both cars have white mold growing on the vinyl upholstery.  We have cleaned the mold, but it always comes back.  Any ideas/remedies on how to get rid of it for good? </description><pubDate>Sun, 08 Jul 2007 09:51:08 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Studegirl</dc:creator></item><item><title>soda blasting</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic129-4-1.aspx</link><description>Can anyone help me with pros and cons of soda blasting my project car? thanks</description><pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2006 15:53:38 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Oldscout</dc:creator></item><item><title>1972 gto inner fenders</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic239-4-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;P align=left&gt;;m hoping some one can tell me if there are new/replacement 1972 GTO/lemans inner fenders available</description><pubDate>Sat, 07 Apr 2007 09:55:31 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Billncars</dc:creator></item><item><title>removing headliner Z 28  1993)</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic302-4-1.aspx</link><description>I need to refurbish sagging headliner cloth on our Z 28 and would like any advice on this, mainly on the safest way to remove piller trim plastic without doing damage. </description><pubDate>Wed, 25 Jun 2008 08:33:18 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>paul helman</dc:creator></item><item><title>69 Firebird dashboard re-chrome</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic294-4-1.aspx</link><description>I'm looking for a method or source to reapply the chrome edge on the perimeter of my Firebird dashboard.  Some people paint it silver, but I am looking for an authentic appearance.  Any advice?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks</description><pubDate>Sat, 26 Apr 2008 12:09:27 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>convertibird</dc:creator></item><item><title>POT METAL REPAIR/REPLATE</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic145-4-1.aspx</link><description>In the September 2003 Mechanic on Duty section, Welco 1509 solder with Welco 380 flux were recommended for filling pits in pot metal, zinc die castings, prior to replating the chrome finish. After over an hour searching on Google, I am unable to locate any current source or information for these products. I found references to a company called Thermacote Welco, located in Kings Mountain, NC, which was the manufacturer at some time in the past, but the phone number is not in service and apparently it has either changed its name or gone out of business. Can anyone help? Does the author of Mechanic on Duty see these postings? Any other solders used for this purpose?</description><pubDate>Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:19:30 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>NormS800</dc:creator></item><item><title>Plastic Restoration</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic275-4-1.aspx</link><description>Does anyone know of a method to restore plastic.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;My situation is this:  I am going to detail my engine compartment on my 71 Lemans this winter.  The fan shroud is typical of a car that age, dull, faded, scratched up, etc. &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Is it possible to restore it so it looks new or somewhat close to it?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thank you</description><pubDate>Wed, 12 Dec 2007 07:15:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>brasicot</dc:creator></item><item><title>Roll Call ........ Again</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic293-4-1.aspx</link><description>Hello all........&lt;P&gt;     it's been nearly 2 years since last roll call, seen lot of people come and go......  If Auto Restorer and it's members excite you at all, lets all get RE-Active, and for all you guests out there, jump in and join, it's free and you'll meet some great people, and learn something new every time you read an article !&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Let me go first......&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I'm 54Plymouth  ( John from Illinois ) been a long time reader and fan. finished my last project, 1954 Ford F100, with Mustang front suspension , 351 Clevland , FMX tranny , Ford 9 inch/410 gears.&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/Smile.gif" border="0" title="Smile"&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;My new project...... 1954 Plymouth Plaza 2 door, all original,( except for converting it to 12V ) flat head 6 ,  3 on the tree , had all the goodies( for back then )  AM radio , full heater system with defrost , automatic choke on carb , got the big "6" in it.&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/BigGrin.gif" border="0" title="BigGrin"&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;looks great , white with blue flames , runs great , drives good , stops  well .......... sometimes ???? ( smile )&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/w00t.gif" border="0" title="w00t"&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Who else is out there? what you got? what do you need?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;lets take roll call and let the games begin !  &lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/Wink.gif" border="0" title="Wink"&gt;</description><pubDate>Wed, 09 Apr 2008 11:56:34 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>54plymouth</dc:creator></item><item><title>Can anyone STOP me?</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic291-4-1.aspx</link><description>Hello all,&lt;P&gt;I have been looking all over ...... everywhere ...... to try and find what parts I need to convert my 1954 Plymouth Plaza, from front drum brakes to disc. ( power or manual )did any of these cars come with that option?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;If anyone knows ............. PLEZE help the PLAZA &lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/w00t.gif" border="0" title="w00t"&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;p align="center"&gt;Thanks to all and keep up the good work !&lt;/p&gt;</description><pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2008 19:40:11 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>54plymouth</dc:creator></item><item><title>1957 Buick Windshield Washer Operation</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic290-4-1.aspx</link><description>Does anyone have any literature on how the windshield washer mechanism works in a '57 Buick? Does anyone have any experience with one? Is there any way to check one out on the workbench? There are (4) vacuum hoses which attach to the washer unit. There is a spring loaded plunger mechanism inside. How does it create PRESSURE to force water out of the bottle?&lt;br&gt;Does the vacuum suck the plunger down and then when the wash button is pushed it releases the vacuum and the spring forces the plunger up? Also there is another piece that fits inside this plunger that has a small spring attached to it. Can't figure out just how it is suppose to work or what it is suppose to do. Any help at all will be greatly appreciated.&lt;br&gt;Lee</description><pubDate>Fri, 28 Mar 2008 14:12:51 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>autonut</dc:creator></item><item><title>Painting mag wheel cover</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic286-4-1.aspx</link><description>Hi,&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have 1966 Chev mag wheel covers. There is a flat black ruff coating that has come off.  I tried painting them by roughing the surface and then using etching primer and then flat paint. After a couple months the paint starts to come off. Any help would be appreciated.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Sam&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description><pubDate>Mon, 11 Feb 2008 09:17:21 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>3 Corvair</dc:creator></item><item><title>Need Help Locating this Mag in stores</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic241-4-1.aspx</link><description>Hello Everyone,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Could anyone tell me where I can find this magazine?  I live on the east coast in a highly populated area.  Thanks everyone and good luck on each and every resto project.</description><pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2007 10:21:51 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Johnysuede</dc:creator></item><item><title>Stopping rust</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic258-4-1.aspx</link><description>hi my names Dwayne im 15 years old an own a 1950 ford custom deluxe sedan right now im strippin all the paint off, and i was wondering does anyone know of anything that will stop rust on bare sheet metal. now im not talkin like primmers or anything i mean like a temporay substance that i can primmer/paint over later.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;thanks</description><pubDate>Fri, 24 Aug 2007 13:35:47 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Blown1950FordFlathead</dc:creator></item><item><title>disc to drum conversion with stock rims</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic271-4-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 62 mercury meteor with 14" rims. Each conversion kit found so far requires 15"+ rims. I would like to keep the stock hubcaps. Are there rims to accommodate the hubcaps or 14" disc brake rims? If not, would the stock drums with a power brake master cylinder be safe? I had the brakes fail due to a failed wheel cylinder and I like to stop. How bad is an all drum system?</description><pubDate>Thu, 01 Nov 2007 12:37:14 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>41flatford</dc:creator></item><item><title>Adding power steering to my 55 Victoria</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic214-4-1.aspx</link><description>I recently purchased a 1955 Ford Victoria and was really surprised how the older cars were so hard to steer.  I am considering adding power steering to it.  Does anyone out there have a clue as to how much this would cost to do?  Would appreciate ANY reply.</description><pubDate>Thu, 16 Nov 2006 17:34:36 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Gerard</dc:creator></item><item><title>Trim Restoration</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic267-4-1.aspx</link><description>In the current (No. 10) issue of AR, the article on "Black Trim Restoration &amp;amp; Care" provided recommendations for restoring "black trim" only.  There was no mention in the article for restoration and protection of badly faded and bug stained,  (medium) &lt;U&gt;gray&lt;/U&gt; vinyl trim (e.g., lower half of late model Ford truck bumpers).  Can you please provide a recommended process for restoration of medium gray vinyl trim?  Thank you.</description><pubDate>Fri, 19 Oct 2007 11:16:07 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>TB</dc:creator></item><item><title>EASTWOOD POWDER COATING</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic264-4-1.aspx</link><description>I was thinking of buying the Eastwood powder coating system. Has anyone here used one? Looking for some in put.</description><pubDate>Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:35:29 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>VPFD13</dc:creator></item><item><title>Original Paint</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic252-4-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 1956 Ford Sunliner that requires paint in the engine compartment.  I would like to keep it as original.  Could someone tell me how I could get the information I would need to keep the paint original?</description><pubDate>Thu, 02 Aug 2007 16:25:34 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>hanna102</dc:creator></item><item><title>Water based paint</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic245-4-1.aspx</link><description>Doing my 1st project and am giving serious thought to the water based paint offered by Eastwood. I even attended a demo at local vo-ed school but that was aimed primarily on auto graphics.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The paint seems like a good idea but it looks like I will need to invest $800+ for 2 HVLP guns to get started as the lowest cost water approved guns seem to start at $300 - $500 then I will also need another gun for the clear coat.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Can anyone point me to articles and or info on this product -other than Eastwood or Auto-Air sites?  What do I do about guns? </description><pubDate>Fri, 04 May 2007 09:00:37 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tireman</dc:creator></item><item><title>Help Locating Touch Up Paint Article</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic229-4-1.aspx</link><description>I am looking for an article in AutoRestorer that described a company in Wisconsin, I believe, that sells touch up paint for classic cars.  I am trying to match a paint code but cannot find the company!  It was recommended in the article but I have misplaced the article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thank you,&lt;br&gt;Dean J</description><pubDate>Thu, 01 Feb 2007 21:42:51 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>DeanJ</dc:creator></item><item><title>34 ford truck fenders</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic235-4-1.aspx</link><description>What has to be changed to make 32 ford passenger fenders fit on a 34 ford truck frame?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks</description><pubDate>Thu, 22 Feb 2007 14:42:25 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>wide34</dc:creator></item><item><title>Need Help With Missing Rear Window Studs?</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic228-4-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;Greetings friends. My name is Mike, and I'm new here.  I have been getting the magazine for a few years though.  I need some help with my 67 GTO.  When it was in the body shop the guy they had replacing my rear windshield decided to remove what was left the the factory studs that hold the molding clips.  And, then he tried to use the tiny screws to hold the new clips in place and they didn't hole very well.  So, he tried to cover up his mistakes by using way to big of screws in places which also didn't allow the molding to attach right.  So, after noticing the molding was installed in an ugly manner, I had the shop take the car back to dothe job the right way.  The problem is, without anything to use other than the same tiny screws.  Which are meant for replacing a few missing studs, not all the studs.  The Body shop does not understand what would be the best way to go.  So, rather than just keep trying something and making a bigger mess.  They asked me to see what I can find out.  I know that there are weld in studs made for this.  However, any of the stud guns the shop has.  And, any I can see advertised have to big of a head to get in the rear window surround to weld in the studs.  So, from what I've learned the studs that weld in are meant more for side molding and places other than the windows.  If anyone has any good ideas, please let me know.  My email address is safe and an easy fast way to contact me.  One more thing I should mention.  The area where the studs go is not rusted out or an area that has ben treated to stop rust.  The bottom section that comes up to the window was replaced and is new.  The top and both sides, have always ben dry and only had minor surface rust.  Thanks, and good day friends.  Mike in Oregon.  Email : &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;A href="mailto:rr67gto@aol.com"&gt;&lt;U&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2&gt;rr67gto@aol.com&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/U&gt;&lt;/A&gt;&lt;FONT face=Arial&gt;   &lt;/FONT&gt;</description><pubDate>Mon, 29 Jan 2007 17:59:13 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>rr67gto</dc:creator></item><item><title>Looking for article on installing rope seals</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic227-4-1.aspx</link><description>I seem to remember an article or letter about installing a typical rope seal on the rear crankshaft with some great tips.  Anyone know which Auto Restorer issue I should look in? &lt;P&gt;- Bill</description><pubDate>Tue, 23 Jan 2007 08:39:31 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>12lives</dc:creator></item><item><title>Chevy 235 block numbers</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic218-4-1.aspx</link><description>My father owns a '53 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup. We recently exchanged its original 216 for a 235. According to the numbers I researched, the cylinder head is a '56 235 (casting #3836848) and the block is a '62 235 (casting number 3769716 with date code J 9 1[October '61]). I know it is not a '51 because this casting number was for '58-62. This is not a third generation 235 as we were able to bolt it straight up to the original bell housing of the '53. The tranny in the truck is a standard 4-speed(3 with granny). I am trying to find if this engine was removed from a pickup or a car. The stamped code behind the distributor is FIOIOJC. I cannot find info anywhere online and would rather not spend money on a book just for one code. I would like to make sure I have the proper tune-up specs for the engine. The only upgrades on the engine are a 12-volt charging sytem with an alternator and a transparent in-line fuel filter. The truck runs well now but I'd like to be sure.</description><pubDate>Fri, 01 Dec 2006 18:39:22 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Mike U.</dc:creator></item><item><title>New to Board Checking in</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic219-4-1.aspx</link><description>I'm in the midst of rebuilding a '66 Chevy truck that was my grandpas when I was a kid. Lots of fun (and work!). I just sent in a subscription to the autorestorer newsletter and am looking forward to sharing experiences with all of you.</description><pubDate>Thu, 07 Dec 2006 08:33:08 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>olCurt</dc:creator></item><item><title>Matching Numbers</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic212-4-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 69 Chevelle SS 396. The story goes that the original motor was replaced under the factory warrenty. The new motor is a 402 . What does this mean ? Is the car considered original ?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;How can I get documentation that shows the motor was replaced under warrenty ?</description><pubDate>Thu, 05 Oct 2006 05:59:45 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Bob Mc C.</dc:creator></item><item><title>need detailed INDEX</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic124-4-1.aspx</link><description>need on-line or downloadable detailed index of the issues through today.  I am starting my project and need to order articles that are relevant.&lt;br&gt;thanks!</description><pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2005 07:42:16 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>tsterkel</dc:creator></item><item><title>88 Econoline window problem</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic209-4-1.aspx</link><description>I'm a long time subscriber to the magazine but new to this site.  I need some advice on what to try next with a driver's side power window that seems to get jammed when closed.  If I start the window anywhere other than fully closed it will run up and down fine.  The motor and switch check OK and when I try to operate the window you can hear the motor hum and the amp gauge move so I think its physically binding somewhere.  I've lubed and siliconed everything I can see.  The window moves up and down freely when the motor is removed, maybe too much.  Any ideas are appreciated.  PS.  I have a 49 Roadmaster waiting for my kids to grow up so I can get her roadworthy again so I can't let her see I can't fix this simple problem.  Joe</description><pubDate>Mon, 04 Sep 2006 15:04:20 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Joe M</dc:creator></item><item><title>My push button 727 has locked up</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic207-4-1.aspx</link><description>My 1965 Plymouth Fury locked up in drive. I could shift from 1st to 2nd to drive but cold not go into neutral reverse or park. This cost me a tranny failure and rebuild on the way to Biluxi Ms. The culprit? I did not have a solid ground between the engine and body. One small ground wire , factory, at the top of the block to the firewall. The plastic insulation had become brittle from heat. The lead at the firewal was snug to the point of not moving, but not tight enough for a good ground. Being electricity it took the path of least resistance, my shift cable became the new ground wire. when the cable reciever, steel, got hot and expanded inside the valve body,aluminum, the transmission would stay in drive. When the receiver cooled down the transmission would then gointo neutral, reverse and park. The cure? a new gruond cable from the block to the firewall and an addional heavy braided cable out of sight from the transmission bracket bolt to the transmission crossmember bolt on the sub frame. I did not find this cure myself an old tranny man told me of this from experiences on older chevys with cables from the lever to the transmission. Hope this helps someone else who may run into this problem. Ed Kelley Marysville, Ohio. Auto restorer reader for long time.</description><pubDate>Sun, 30 Jul 2006 08:44:48 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Ed Kelley</dc:creator></item><item><title>Roll Call</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic21-4-1.aspx</link><description>I was just wondering how many people are visiting this site and what their projects are so I thought it might be a good idea to have a roll call.&lt;br&gt;  My name is Jim Dutton and I live in Paulden, Arizona, a small town 90 miles North of Phoenix.  My project is a 1968 Dodge Coronet R/T which is an original 440 4 speed car.  It is one of 1983 4 speed cars made in 1968 and came standard with the 440HP motor and Dana 60 rear axle.&lt;br&gt;  The car is at present totally dismantled and sitting on jack stands while I go through the body restoration one panel at a time.&lt;br&gt;  My goal is to have it finished by the end of 2005 but time and money will dictate the actual finish time.&lt;br&gt;  I have restored one car previous to this project and that was a 1968 Mustang.&lt;br&gt;  Though not an expert by any means I am willing to try to help anyone that I can to learn from my limited experience.&lt;br&gt;  Wishing all a Merry Christmas and Happy Restoration Days.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Acts 16:31</description><pubDate>Thu, 16 Dec 2004 08:45:01 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>68 Coronet RT</dc:creator></item><item><title>67 Chevelle chassis swap</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic198-4-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD class=smalltxt vAlign=top&gt;Does anyone have information concerning putting a 67 HT &lt;FONT class=SearchHighlight&gt;Chev&lt;/FONT&gt;elle body on a 1964 El Camino chassis. I would like to mate the two but have concerns over the body mount alignment and I understand the rear frame must be grafted as well. Any information would be helpful. &lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;</description><pubDate>Tue, 23 May 2006 17:11:13 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>1955chevynomad</dc:creator></item><item><title>Message Board Change Coming Next Tuesday</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic157-4-1.aspx</link><description>On Tuesday, May 23rd, 2006, we will be upgrading the message boards.  The look will be a bit different, and some things will change, but you will get more features and a faster-loading board.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;ALL OF YOUR CONTENT WILL BE FINE AND ON THE NEW BOARDS!  YOU WILL NOT NEED TO RE-REGISTER, EITHER!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We hope you will enjoy the new message board software and we look forward to making your continued experience here an enjoyable one!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thank you!</description><pubDate>Fri, 19 May 2006 12:06:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Animal Network Admin</dc:creator></item><item><title>whats happening</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic155-4-1.aspx</link><description>Just wondering what is happening in the auto restoration world.I notice not much talk on this site about restoring autos.I would like too hear what you guys are working on because restoration is at its all time high right now.I'm sure many of you have projects underway so lets talk about it.I have six projects going at the same time with many more waiting to get underway.Hope I can be some help to others someday.RSR&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;RS RESTORATIONS SINCE 1976</description><pubDate>Sun, 30 Apr 2006 08:28:17 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>rsr</dc:creator></item><item><title>76 Chev Full size Pickup</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic153-4-1.aspx</link><description>Can anyone offer any advise on how to determine if my cab mounts should be replaced? I am restoring the truck and it is in good shape overall. It is an Arizona truck so no rust. The cab mounts look OK but I imagine looks can be deceiving. Since the truck is 30 years old, should I just assume they are bad and replace them? Any info appreciated.</description><pubDate>Sat, 22 Apr 2006 23:17:20 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>trikepapa</dc:creator></item><item><title>Karmann Ghia Restoration</title><link>http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/board/Topic152-4-1.aspx</link><description>I'm looking for a quality shop that specializes in restoring Ghias and Volkswagens in the North Central US.  I want to have a pan-off restoration done on a 74 Ghia Convertible.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.&lt;br&gt;Thanks, Max</description><pubDate>Fri, 21 Apr 2006 08:45:06 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>maxwt</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>